I Went to Santorini and Loved it—But I Wouldn’t Go Back

What it’s like to visit a tourist hotspot when the tourists are gone.

Unless you were really following the news, you probably missed that Santorini had a bit of a shake-up earlier this year. In February, it was hit by an earthquake. Hundreds of small tremors were felt for several days. Cruise ships paused. Tourists stayed away. And for a brief moment, it was like the island took a deep breath and quietly said, “Enough for now.”

And honestly? It might be the best thing that could’ve happened to the place.

Because Santorini, this volcanic diva of an island, is tired.

Before the pandemic, Santorini was pulling in around 2 million visitors a year…and it was showing. Locals were worried. The island was stretched thin, infrastructure cracking under the pressure. Sunset viewpoints were packed shoulder to shoulder. Even the old donkey trails started looking more like crowded pedestrian thoroughfares than anything rustic or charming.

But maybe now, just maybe... it won’t be so crowded. And if that’s true, then maybe it’s worth visiting again.

Still, I wouldn’t go back.

The irony: I loved my trip

Funny, isn’t it? I’m not here to bash Santorini. In fact, I loved it.

But I loved my version of it. The rare one. The 2020 edition.

Before the pandemic, I had never thought of visiting Santorini. But after 4 months of lockdown, I was desperate for an escape and Greece was desperate for tourism. It was also my birthday week, so we hopped on a flight for our first family holiday of the year.

And it was perfect.

Empty streets. Quiet beaches. Sunsets with elbow room. No Instagram models blocking doorways. No screaming crowds in Oia. Just us, the cliffs, and the sea.

I knew it wouldn’t last.

Santorini is everything and too much

It’s like someone gave a volcano a Pinterest board and said, “Go wild.” The result is cliffside chaos, whitewashed drama, and sunsets so absurdly beautiful I almost laughed.

But it’s also a place of extremes.

The best breakfast I had in Greece was cooked by the staff at a little boutique hotel in Perivolos. They smiled, chatted and made me feel like royalty. And then I walked to the beach, sat on a pristine lounger, and realised I was one of maybe six people on the entire shoreline.

In August.

That doesn’t happen in Santorini. Not usually. That only happens when the world shuts down.

Marillia Village Apartments & Suites

Summer hell and the myth of the perfect Greek Island

Here’s a personal truth bomb: a crowded beach is my personal hell.

The idea of fighting for sunbeds, listening to other people’s music, sharing the sea with 400 strangers who just ate falafel dipped in tzatziki? No thanks.

That’s why I put off visiting Greece for years.

It’s also why I almost didn’t write about Santorini at all. Because the version I got isn’t the version most people get. I got the rare, quiet, slowed-down island. The one where you can walk from Fira to Oia without stepping over selfie sticks. The one where the pool at your hotel is yours until noon because there are no other guests.

That Santorini was dreamy.

But that Santorini is gone.

Perivolos beach, we had the whole beach to ourselves

It’s still stunning - but is it worth it?

The thing is, Santorini has earned its reputation.

The hike from Fira to Oia? Iconic. Long, hot, and totally worth the sweat. You’ll see cliffs, churches, and views so beautiful you’ll stop mid-step and forget how to breathe.

The food? delicious. Local, simple, deeply satisfying.

The people? Generous. Warm and deeply welcoming.

So yes. It’s “worth it.” But it depends who you are.

I've put together a list of the best places to eat in Santorini with views that don’t come with a side of selfie sticks.

👉 Check it out here.

Who shouldn’t go

• If you hate crowds, don’t go in summer.

• If you want a sandy beach with perfect blue water, go to Naxos instead. The sand in Santorini is black and pebbly.

• If you're on a budget? Skip it. Accommodation is expensive. Not “slightly pricey”—expensive.

• If you're traveling with kids, the island might not give you enough for them to do.

• And if you're dreaming of those iconic blue domes in Oia? Be prepared to battle dozens of people trying to take the same shot. Some of them literally jump off rooftops to do it.

So why did i fall in love with it?

Because Santorini leaves an impression before you’ve even finished unpacking.

Every corner has a view. Every alley has a memory waiting to happen. It’s romantic, melancholic and chaotic.

But mostly?

Because I caught it when it was quiet.

I met Santorini when it had taken off the makeup. When it was resting and breathing

That’s the version of it I’ll always love.

And that’s also why I’ll probably never go back.

Go if you must, but know what you’re getting

If you do decide to go, here are some tips that might help you find the same quiet magic I did.

• Go in shoulder season. Skip July and August. Try April or late September. Be patient. Be early. Stay late. Don’t try to chase the Instagram version. The real version is just around the corner.

• Don’t just stick to the tourist path. Oia is pretty but there are other tiny villages in between worth the detour. Hop on a bus with the locals and see where it takes you.

• Do a sunset hike from Fira to Oia. It’s 10 km long and takes around 2.5 hours to complete. The hike takes you along the edge of the caldera through Santorini’s pretty villages such as Firostefani and Imerovigli and offers wonderful views of the volcano and the sea.

• There are several other blue domed churches in Santorini which are far less crowded such as the church of St Gerasimos in Firostefani and Panagia of Agioi Theodoroi church which is sometimes open for visitors.

• Do a sailing trip: A boat trip is the best way to experience an island and in Santorini you have several options available. You can do a volcano and hot springs tour where you take a walk around the active volcano then soak in the mud baths and swim in the hot springs.

• Or you can take a luxury sunset cruise onboard a catamaran with a small group or privately if you wish. You will get a chance to snorkel in crystal waters and sail past the caldera while admiring the glorious views and the cliff-hanging white houses. Most of these trips offer a full meal or a BBQ.

  

• Watch a movie under the twinkling stars. Open air cinemas have been around for a while but if you haven’t yet experienced one then Santorini is the best place to do that. The Open Air Cinema in Kamari is a 12-minute drive from Fira and about 20 to 25 minutes from Oia. There is also a bus station just across the cinema entrance. The cinema shows all current movies in Greek with English subtitles. Open from May until October. Tickets cost 9 Euro (2020 prices).

Ever been somewhere that felt perfect because you caught it at the right time? I’d love to hear your story. Or if you’re dreaming about Santorini and wondering if it’s the right trip for you, drop a comment below. Let’s be real about travel.