Essaouira, Unrushed: 3 Day Escape to Morocco’s Most Magical Coast City
Where sea winds meet street music. This is the itinerary for travellers who crave culture and calm in equal measure.
I was 22 the first time I set foot in Essaouira.
A friend of mine was heading there with a crew to attend the Gnaoua World Music Festival and on a whim, he invited me to tag along. At the time, I was working as an Editorial Assistant at a finance magazine. Young, broke and dying to write my first real feature.
So I did what any ambitious 22-year-old would do. I pitched the idea to my editor. Somehow, I managed to convince my suspicious boss that a story about a music festival in a seaside town known for hash and Hendrix was absolutely vital to our economic coverage.
Miraculously, it worked.
And just like that, I was off, on an all-expenses-paid, three-day ride into madness.
I packed a notebook and a camera, totally unaware that I was about to walk straight into a storm of music, chaos and magic.
Essaouira hit me like a crashing wave.
It was loud. Wild. Alive.
That weekend, I danced in the street with strangers I never saw again but who felt like old friends. I wandered the ramparts under the moonlight. I sipped mint tea in smoky rooms filled with painters, Gimbri musicians and artists who spoke six languages but never needed one. I loved every minute.
I fell so hard for Essaouira, I went back three years in a row.
Because something about the place, the chaos, the soul, the art felt like home. Especially for who I was back then. Extroverted. Curious. Starved for connection. Always ready to dissolve into the moment and lose myself in a crowd.
And it made perfect sense.
Essaouira has always been that kind of place. It was where Mick Jagger came to disappear. Where Hendrix came to dream. Where Orson Welles shot Othello and was convinced its raw drama could match Shakespeare’s.
It was Morocco’s hippie escape hatch. A place for seekers, misfits, romantics, and rebels.
And I loved every dusty, noisy, unfiltered inch of it.
But then life happened.
My passport collected other stamps. My energy changed, and so did I. Essaouira slowly faded into the background.
Until last summer, while on a mini vacation to Marrakech with my sister and my aunt, I felt an urge to be somewhere else, to escape the heat and the crowds.
And a quiet voice in my gut said: You need to go back to Essaouira.
So I went back.
This time, No story to chase. No press pass. No festival madness.
We rented a bright, breezy apartment outside the medina, perched above the sea. The view was endless. The soundtrack was wind and waves.
And this time, I saw a different Essaouira.
Not the wild one. Not the psychedelic, painter-filled, late-night-drumming version.
A quieter one.
Less hippie. Less arty.
But no less soulful.
And I liked this version too.
Day 1 – The Welcome
We’d just checked into our apartment, and within ten minutes I was barefoot on the rooftop, sipping mint tea and watching seagulls do their usual kite impressions above the roofs.
If you’re new to the city of wind, here’s how you should spend your first day.
Check into a Riad inside the Medina
Pick one with a rooftop. I don’t care how “charming” the courtyard is, what you want is height. The rooftops are where the magic happens.
Walk with no purpose
Switch your phone off or leave it on to take photos but put it on airplane mode. Ditch Google Maps. Essaouira’s medina is small enough that you can’t truly get lost, but twisty enough to make you doubt yourself. It’s all part of the fun. Let the blue doors and tiled walls pull you in and let go of control.
Sit by the port and eat grilled sardines
Head down to the fishing port and follow the smell of charcoal and the sound of friendly banter. You’ll find small stalls grilling fresh sardines right off the boats—no frills, just flavour. Squeeze some lemon and eat it with your hands. It’s simple, delicious, and part of the rituals of the city. Don’t worry too much about where you sit or how it’s served. This is as local as it gets.
Shop without guilt
Souvenirs don’t have to suck. Skip the plastic camels and go for:
Argan oil – Essaouira is the only region in Morocco where Argan trees grow naturally, so you’re getting the real deal. Look for co-ops or small shops where it’s cold-pressed and locally made.
Handwoven rugs – They’re not cheap (and shouldn’t be), but if you haggle with respect and a smile, you might just walk away with a piece of art for your floor or wall.
Original paintings – Many local artists sell their work directly from their workshops or the street, and they’ll often share the meaning behind each piece. It’s half gallery, half storytelling.
Thuya wood boxes – This fragrant wood is unique to the region, and the boxes made from it are beautifully crafted and smell like a cedar forest in the sun. they’re great for storing jewellery, memories, or gift someone.
Don’t go sightseeing yet. Just chill
This is not a “10 things to do before you die” checklist. Day 1 is about letting the city soak into your skin. Cancel your plans. Embrace the art of doing nothing.
Sunset at Skala de la ville
Climb the wall. Lean on a cannon. Watch the waves go wild as they hit the rocks. This is your baptism. It’s windy as hell, and the Atlantic doesn’t care if your hair looks good.
Pro tip: Even in July, the wind has a mind of its own. It might feel warm at noon, but by late afternoon, you’ll be glad you packed a light sweater.
Day 2 – The soul of the city
Set an alarm. You won’t regret it.
Essaouira at 7 a.m. has a whole different vibe.
No crowds. No shops open. No influencers filming a Reel wearing a clay tagine like a hat.
Just you, the stone walls and the occasional sleepy cat.
Go for a slow morning walk
Before anything opens, head toward the ramparts. Pretend you're the main character in a moody French novel. Don’t check the map. Let the smell of the ocean and the whisper of the wind guide you. You won’t regret it.
Walk to the Mellah
The old Jewish quarter is one of the quietest, most atmospheric places in Essaouira. You’ll see fading synagogues, narrow alleyways, and blue doors that hold more history than you’ll ever Google. There’s so much beauty in the silence.
Breakfast at Cafe Aftass
Order the full spread. You’ll get fresh bread, msemen or mlaoui (Moroccan crepes), argan oil (the edible kind—not the stuff for your hair), and amlou, the almondy, nutty, addictive paste that’ll probably ruin peanut butter for you forever. Sip your coffee slowly, and watch the world go by,locals walking to work, tourists taking photos, artisans chiseling away at their next masterpiece just a few feet away. Morning doesn’t get more Essaouira than this.
Visit Galerie Damgaard
Real Moroccan art. Bold. Unfiltered. This is not a souvenir shop. Just raw creative energy in a beautiful old building. Look for the big pieces in the back. You’ll wish you brought a bigger suitcase.
Swing by Dar Souiri
This is a historic building and a cultural centre, but sometimes it feels more like a secret club. If you’re lucky, you’ll hear Gnawa musicians jamming or catch a rehearsal. If not, just enjoy the calm. Either way, it’s worth it.
Beach walk
You could rent a board or sign up for a surf lesson. Essaouira’s waves are perfect for beginners and pros alike. Or skip the board altogether, wander barefoot along the shoreline, and let the sand exfoliate your soul while you watch kite surfers dance across the horizon.
Lobster at Chez Zak
Treat yourself. Life’s short. Lobster is delicious. Chez Zak is humble and usually full of locals. You’ll get messy but will leave happy and full.
Talk to people
This is the secret sauce. Essaouira is full of conversations waiting to happen. Vendors, artists, old fishermen. Ask them something about the history of the city. Tell them where you're from. They'll tell you a story.
Day 3 – The Silence
You’ve walked, you’ve shopped and you’ve eaten your body weight in bread and olives.
Now—you rest.
Get a day pass to Jardin Villa Maroc
This is your soft landing. A poolside garden. Quiet and private. Olive trees and sea breeze and mint tea on demand. It’s the perfect place to exhale, unplug, and forget what day it is.
Villa Maroc offers day passes (with advance booking) that include access to their beautiful garden, pool, and an outdoors barbecue lunch. It’s located on the suburbs of Essaouira but if you can’t arrange your own transport, they’ll pick you up from the old town for a small fee.
But if they’re full or you're curious to explore more, here are a few equally peaceful alternatives:
Le Jardin des Douars. A short drive from town, tucked in the hills, with lush gardens, two pools (one adult-only), and a proper restaurant that serves cold rosé and warm tagine. The day pass includes lunch and towels.
Villa Beldi. Just minutes from the medina, this charming boutique stay is set in a lush garden with a heated pool, peacocks, and cactus-dotted courtyards. The restaurant serves fresh Mediterranean-Moroccan fusion, and day passes are available for a peaceful escape.
Wherever you go, bring a book, or don’t. Order lunch in the garden. Nap under a parasol. Meditate in the shade. Swim. Sleep. Repeat.
Final sunset at Taros
You can’t skip this. It’s a rite of passage.
Find a table on the rooftop. Order a drink.
As the sun sets, take a moment to sit still and take it all in. The changing light, the steady wind, and the sound of waves hitting the shore. It’s a simple reminder that some things don’t need to be chased. They’re just there, doing what they’ve always done.
Final takeaway
Essaouira has two sides. An extroverted one: festivals, drum circles, rooftop laughs.
And an introverted one: quiet galleries, long beach walks, still mornings.
Both are real.
My advice: If it’s your first time, skip the “Top 10 Things to Do.”
Let the city surprise you.
And if you’re not sure which side of it you might like. Don’t worry. Essaouira gives you exactly the version of herself you need.
The Gnawa and World Music Festival is Essaouira’s biggest annual event, held every June. It brings together Morocco’s traditional Gnawa musicians with international artists from genres like jazz, blues, reggae, and Afrobeat. Over three days, the city’s streets, squares, and beach stages come alive with open-air concerts, spontaneous jam sessions, and cultural exchanges that celebrate rhythm, heritage, and connection. Most performances are free and open to the public.
I loved this! You made me want to go there.
Oh myyyy, I've not been to Morocco yet and it's so high on my bucket list! I'll have to add Essaoira to the itinerary!